Kolhapuri Chappal Vs Prada: Bombay HC Dismisses PIL

The Bombay High Court on Wednesday dismissed a public interest litigation (PIL) petition that sought action against Italy-based luxury fashion giant Prada for allegedly copying the design of Maharashtra's iconic Kolhapuri Chappals without authorisation.

The plea had said the Kolhapuri chappal (sandals) is protected as a Geographical Indication (GI) under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act. “This action of PRADA infringes the fundamental right to life (Article 21), which includes the right to livelihood and cultural identity of the Kolhapuri Chappal artisan communities,” the plea stated.

The bench of Chief Justice Alok Aradhe and Justice Sandeep Marne questioned the “locus” and statutory right of the five advocates who had filed it. The bench then directed that the registered proprietor of the GI Tag can come to court and espouse their own action, observing that they were not directly affected parties or the registered proprietors of the GI-tagged product.

“You are not the owner of this Kolhapuri chappal. What is your locus, and what is the public interest? Any person aggrieved can file a suit. What is the public interest in this?” the court asked. Following the hearing of both the petitioners’ lawyers and Prada’s representatives, the bench said, “The Petition is dismissed, reasons to follow.”

The PIL, filed by five advocates, argued that Prada had showcased 'toe ring sandals' as part of its Spring/Summer 2026 Men’s Collection at its fashion show held in Milan on June 22. Priced at over ₹1 lakh per pair, the sandals reportedly bore a striking resemblance to the traditional Kolhapuri Chappal. The petitioners contended that this amounted to cultural misappropriation and violated the rights of artisan communities associated with the centuries-old craft.

The petition alleged that Prada neither acknowledged the Indian origins of the footwear nor credited the artisans who have preserved the craft for generations. It argued that the footwear, officially granted GI status on May 4, 2009, represents a traditional art form involving specialised skills and time-intensive processes, typically requiring four to five weeks to produce a single pair.

The Kolhapuri Chappal was officially granted GI status on May 4, 2009. It was renewed in 2019 and is valid until 2029. Describing its significance, the plea mentioned, “Handcrafted footwear, produced using traditional methods passed down over generations in the region of Maharashtra.”

The PIL highlights that making a pair of Kolhapuri Chappals involves specialised skills and a time-intensive process, often taking four to five weeks to complete each pair. The footwear reflects countless hours of meticulous labour by artisans who have preserved this traditional art form for nearly 800 years.

The petition sought that the court direct Prada to cease further commercialise and use the Kolhapuri Chappal design, and compensate the artisan communities for reputational and economic losses incurred.

It also added that the government should be directed to frame transparent and appropriate guidelines and constitute a committee for the protection of GI-registered products in international markets.